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Squeezed by inflation and politics, a Texas food bank gets creative to keep people fed

Orchard manager William Russell picks Jona Gold apples in the South Plains Food Bank orchard in Lubbock on Aug. 22. (Mark Rogers For The Texas Tribune, Mark Rogers For The Texas Tribune)

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LUBBOCK — Just a short walk behind the South Plains Food Bank lies an uncommon sight in the parched region — thousands of lush trees covered in apples, persimmons and other fresh fruit.

The 15-acre orchard has its roots in East Lubbock, a known food desert in the city of about 264,000 people. While a team harvests the apples for the food bank, the orchard is also open for visitors to take them home, too.

“It’s one of a kind,” said William Russell, the orchard manager. “We have people come get all the apples off the ground. It’s the only orchard (in Lubbock) open to the public like this.”

The fruit from the 15-acre orchard is an integral part to the food bank’s mission of feeding people in need. Nearly 4 million Texans struggle with hunger and food insecurity. About 20% of Texas children suffer from food insecurity, according to Feeding Texas, a nonprofit with 20 member food banks that reach every county in Texas.

Inflation, stagnant wages and the state’s decision to pass on $450 million for a federal summer lunch program have only made the problem worse. For decades, food banks across the country have filled a role in helping feed people. However, these organizations, including the one in Lubbock, are also feeling the squeeze.

Dina Jeffries, CEO of the food bank, said people can become vulnerable in a heartbeat, whether it be from job loss, an unexpected bill, or an emergency. Jeffries said communities are still feeling the impacts of the pandemic and inflation.

“If I’m going to the grocery store and saying ‘Ouch,’ I can’t imagine someone being food insecure,” Jeffries said.

Celia Cole is the CEO of Feeding Texas. Cole said more families have turned to food banks this summer. They are working with the Texas Department of Agriculture, which runs an existing summer meal program, but Cole says the food banks are being stretched thin.

“We’re struggling to keep up,” Cole said. “We’re feeling a lot of additional demand and turning over warehouses of food daily.”

Another hurdle is the long-delayed federal Farm Bill, an enormous legislative package that sets policies for food and agricultural programs. House lawmakers introduced their version in May, but it has since stalled. The 2018 Farm Bill was extended last year through Sept. 30. Congress has just about a month to discuss, amend, and pass legislation that’s estimated to be worth at least $1.5 trillion.

The South Plains Food Bank has been growing limited crops in their small orchard and garden to grow fruit and vegetables,

The South Plains Food Bank grows limited crops in their small orchard. Credit: Mark Rogers for The Texas Tribune

A Sun Flower grows in the South Plains Food Bank garden. The Food Bank has been growing limited crops in their small garden.

A Sun Flower grows in the food bank garden. Credit: Mark Rogers for The Texas Tribune

First: The South Plains Food Bank grows limited crops in their small orchard. Last: A sunflower grows in the food bank garden. Credit: Mark Rogers for The Texas Tribune

The Farm Bill funds a wide range of programs that affect agriculture, including crop insurance and loans for farmers. It also includes several food programs, such as the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program and the Emergency Food Assistance Program. Funding for nutritional programs may account for about 80% of the next farm bill budget.

Food banks are looking to the Farm Bill for relief, Cole said, especially for increased funding to the emergency food program. Through the program, the U.S. Department of Agriculture buys nutritious food from U.S. farmers, then the food is distributed through state agencies and local food banks. However, the SNAP program has been highly debated in Farm Bill discussion. And U.S. Rep. Glenn Thompson, a Republican from Pennsylvania, proposed a version of the bill in May that would cut roughly $30 billion in SNAP benefits.

“We’re sort of on the defense when it comes to SNAP, to prevent cuts,” Cole said. “We’re also working closely with our state agency partners and the legislature to help them understand the importance of the summer meal program.”

In Lubbock, the South Plains Food Bank is trying to work around a problem that’s become common in nonprofits — the need for more donations as inflation hits donors too.

“Nonprofits are seeing a drop off in funding,” said Chase Head, chief development officer for the food bank. “Lubbock is very generous, especially the businesses, but people have to make tough decisions on where their funds are going.”

Head said they’ve tried more creative ways to draw in donors. Last year, the food bank celebrated its 40th anniversary with an event featuring Klaus Georis, a Michelin-recognized chef. The event sold out almost overnight and raised $200,000, which helped the food bank provide 600,000 meals to about 200,000 people. According to Head, 65% of their donors that night were first-time donors.

The food bank hosted the event again Saturday, with a Farm and Orchard theme. Apples from the orchard were included in the dessert. The event was sold out, and Head said the food bank reached their goal of $250,000. This equates to 750,000 meals.

The food bank also has a 5.5 acre farm nearby that grows produce like watermelon, cucumbers and tomatoes, and has other features like pollinator gardens. The farm is used for the food bank’s GRUB program, or growing recruits for urban business.

Grub manager Sandy Garcia looks one of the Sun Flower plants that the South Plains Food Bank and Grub Farm grows.

Farm manager Sandy Garcia tends to plants at the South Plains Food Bank. Credit: Mark Rogers for The Texas Tribune

Sandy Garcia, the farm manager, teaches young adults about farming and other life skills. This summer, there are about 20 working with her.

“I really enjoy working in the summer when we have all the kids here,” Garcia said. “I like getting to know them, and I learn from them every day, too.”

Back at the orchard, Russell is filling buckets with jonagold apples. On a good year, the orchard can grow anywhere from 80,000-150,000 pounds of apples for the food bank. Similar to the food from the farm, everything that grows at the orchard goes right to the people the food bank serves.

“Most people don’t even know this is here in Lubbock,” Russell said. “So when people do experience it, they’re pretty excited.”

Russell said the orchard is open to the public and they love having visitors, whether they want to pick up fruit or learn how to grow their own in the arid region.


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